Backstreet Cafe Restaurant of Houston
Wine at Backstreet
Wine News & Monthly Recommendations
We have a simple mantra regarding wine here at Backstreet: “Wine is not an extra or a luxury, but a necessary part of healthy living and a critical ingredient in helping food taste its best.” It is this belief that compels us to be diverse in our selections and above all fair in our price. We will continue to provide you with the best wine at the best prices so relax and take pleasure in a great meal.
Whatever your needs you can count on us. For more information or to schedule and event, please call 713-302-9087.
~ Sean Beck-Sommelier
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- White of the Month: '10 Avanthia Godello (Valdeorras) - Spain
- I'm not saying I stalked this wine, but my obsession in snagging it for Backstreet was bordering on unhealthy. After tasting it in May, I simply couldn't shake its memory from my palate. For weeks I begged, cajoled, bargained, pleaded and mildly threatened, all to no avail. Sometimes the slow boat to China is actually a slow boat from Spain. Fortunately, patience has paid off and the Avanthia is now in Texas. Made from Godello, an ancient varietal, this stirring white is one of the most complex Spanish whites you'll ever taste. The grape is a case study in stress, as it's grown on terraced vineyards along the steep mountainous regions of Valdeorras in Galicia. The rich, rocky terrain and sharp angle of the land forces the vines to grow deep, allowing the fruit to absorb the flavor of the mineral-laden subsoil. Avanthia hand-harvests its fruit from vines as old as eighty years, and ages the wine in large French oak casks. The nose is a beguiling mix of lithe citrus, fragrant pear and wild flowers. It has a generous but elegant texture, and shows mouthwatering nuances of stone fruit and mineral. This white wine is a sublime way to ride the roller coaster of temperature as summer transitions to fall, delivering ample richness with an undeniable grace.
Glass: 13.5 3-oz: Taste: 7 Bottle: 54 - Red of the Month: '08 Chateau Picque Caillou (Pessac-Léognan) - France
- In Bordeaux, the Graves appellation is the only area that excels in producing whites, sweet wines and reds. While whites and sweet wines are best in the South, Pessac-Léognan – the exceptional sub appellation in the North of Graves – is the star for red wines. The complex, gravel-laden soil provides the base for Chateau Haut-Brion, one of four original First Growth Bordeauxs. The history of Haut-Brion's brilliance spans back to the early days of America. Thomas Jefferson was said to have purchased bottles for his own cellar after visiting the estate. While the current vintage of this legend will typically run you a thousand dollars or more, you can crash quite comfortably with some of its substantially lower-priced neighbors. Value in Bordeaux is quickly "going the way of the dodo bird," so I pounce anytime a steal comes my way. Picque Caillou is a good wine that becomes outstanding in the company of food. It marries earth and fruit in a way you won't see in California. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Cabernet Franc, the Picque has a wonderfully herbaceous nose with dark red fruit and spice. The overall impression is a one of old-world charm with polished tannins, a generous core of fine fruit and enough oak to add a touch of cigar box spice.
Glass: 11.5 3-oz. Taste: 6 Bottle: 46 - NV Andre Clouet Grand Reserve Brut (Champagne) - France 79
- The rise of Cava, American sparkling and Prosecco has stolen much of Champagane’s spotlight. While those are all delicoius options for getting your bubble on, nothing approaches the etheral quality of fine Champagne. The gap was narrowed due to big houses, with limited interaction to the land. Fortunately we are ripe for the emergence of grower driven, artisan producers like Clouet. Taking flight from Pinot grown on his property in the Bouzy, it’s incredibly textured and brimming with red tinged fruit, nut, crusty bread, and vibrant floral tones. An offering like this can lead to a lifetime champagne love affair.
- ’08 Mac Forbes Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley) - Australia 54
- Houston’s own Martin Korson, formally the Sommelier for Brennans and Central Market, is now an ambassador for the wines of Australia. He held a class a few months ago on the history, terroir, appellations and styles of Riesling and Pinot Noir in Australia. In addition to the wonderful information, I came back with the taste of this sumptuous Pinot in my mouth. Of course, this meant I had to track it down and bring it to Texas for all of you. Don’t be fooled by the pale color, this wine is a sexy, curvacious Pinot with a core of wild strawberries, red cherries, Mexican cinnamon, and subtle herbal components.
- ’06 Tenuta Solideo di Salviano Cabernet Blend (Lago di Corbara) – Italy 78
- Italy knows no bounds when it comes to making wine: They’ve explored every area, grown thousands of varietals and produced wines running from rustic to strikingly progressive. Along Lake Corbara in the hills of Umbria, sits the estate of Salviano. The grandsons of Sassicaia's founder Mario Incisa della Rocchetta , have put a cellar, and winemaking facility, in an old castle; the perfect combination of history and modernization. Their Cabernet/Merlot blend is bright in fruit, and with the color I associate with Napa, but it has the supple tannin structure of Washington, followed by the earthy kiss of Italian soil.
- ’09 Chateau Trinquevedel Rose (Tavel) – France 36
- In a place like Texas, we have the luxury of getting “Rose” weather anytime of year; I served a few bottles on the patio this New Year’s! The summer month might be the peak of the season, but that doesn’t mean you should ignore Rose the rest of the year. Tavel is Rose for the cooler months, with a gravitas forged in the stony soils of the region. Trinquevedel has that papery, bone dry style with a little extra heft of alchol. The decadent color and luxuriant aromas of cherry pit, raspberry, rhubarb and tobacco leaf is grand stuff.
- ’09 Capture "Tradition" Sauvignon Blanc - California 60
- I'm thrilled to share this beautiful example of white Bordeaux made in the California climate. Even better, it takes the place of the more expensive Peter Michael L'apres Midi. My apologies to Peter Michael fans, but we will no longer carry their wines. This is due in no small part to them saying the subpar Houston economy didn't merit more of their wine. C'est la vie! Back to Capture, a winery helmed by Denis Malbec formerly the man behind Chateau Latour. The "Tradition" exemplifies beauty and grace with a lithe texture and enchanting waves of Meyer lemon, nectarine and peach sage. It charms the palate with joyful fruit, pristine acidity, and beguiling notes of wild flower. Not to mention, they are delighted to sell wine in Houston.
- 2007 Betts & Scholl "Chronique" Grenache (Barossa Valley)|Australia 50
- The Food Network has the "Iron Chef" program, but in Houston we have the Periwinkle Foundation's "Iron Sommelier" competition. It's a night where sommeliers battle as they pour amazing wines and get all geeked up talking grapes and soil. Best of all, the event raises money to help Perwinkle improve the lives of sick children and their families. It's not often I get to help children via pouring wine, so I love participating. This year my theme was the underappreciated Grenache grape. Betts & Scholl was one of the three wines I selected to honor this brilliant varietal. The wine is lithe and curvaceous with raspberry, cherry, fragrant red licorice with a flirtatious sense of spice. The finish lingers just long enough to leaving you salivating for another sip. Only 400 cases of this sexy little red were made, so enjoy it now, particularly with the duck.
- ’06 The Pedestal Merlot (Columbia Valley) - Washington 95
- Celebrity winemaker Michel Rolland is seen as the Michael Bay of winemaking. He's hired by wineries around the world to pump up what they do in an effort to get the big scores. Unfortunately, this approach can come at the expense of terroir. The one grape Michel never messes around with is Merlot. You can see this love and respect for the grape in his efforts at Washington's Long Shadow winery. Polished, yet rich with an unforced intensity hanging like a will fitted Armani suit. The nuanced flavors of dark cassis, black cherry, and shaved pencil, are met with a slight tarry note and elegant black pepper hit on the finish.
- '09 Novy Blanc de Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley) – Oregon 46
- Diana Lee of Novy/Siduri Vineyards made her first visit to Backstreet a decade ago. Here we are a 10 years later and I'm still in awe of these incredible vintners. Adam Lee came down in June for a wine dinner at Hugo's. He brought along this unique white made out of Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley. It's similar in weight to Rhone white, but with superb acidity, juicy fruit, and almost amberish color. The nose is layered with spicy orange peel, citrus, hints of bright red plum and cherry. Familiarity and adventure walk hand in hand in the glass. I find this wine at its best with the robust flavors of salmon or the shellfish risotto.
